Vertical Magazine, December 2004

I always thought The End of the Affair was one of the most amazing looking routes on gritstone. Ever since I first saw it, I really wanted to climb it. But I never thought I'd have the nerve to try!

I'd been on the route on toprope but it never felt secure. However, I still wanted to give it a go, and on a Monday morning at the beginning of October, Wills and I drove out to Manchester airport to pick up photographer Stephan Denys, who was arriving from France. He was coming to shoot pictures of the French Petzl team who were arriving the same day for their Peak "Roc Trip." We told Stephan I was going to take another look at The End of the Affair, and he was glad for a chance to start shooting some pictures first thing. I don't think he realized what he was in for.

He set himself up by hanging from a sling about ten feet above the crux. When I started leading, he started shooting pictures, taking this incredible image of the crux.

I was really focusing, and in-the-moment. I put complete trust in my right toe on a tiny slopey edge, and pulled really hard on the left heel as I stretched to my absolute limit to reach the next hold. My right hand was outstretched against the rock purely for balance as I crept my left fingers slowly up the rounded arete. I held the swing… but then, after I pulled up on that small sloping edge above the crux and was setting up for the big do-or-die lock-off with a bad smear for a foothold, Stephan became gripped with fear. He stopped shooting for a moment, saying quietly, "Come on Lisa…!"

There is no room for hesitation or distraction at this point. I pulled my foot up, stuck the move and Stephan began shooting again! We were both incredibly happy. Stephan has also become a very good friend.

-- Lisa Rands