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In June, Lisa Rands took first place at
the World Cup bouldering comp in Lecco, Italy, becoming the first ever to do so.
With her second-place World Cup debut in Birmingham, England, last year, Rands
made her presence known in the international arena. However, her eighth
place finish at this year's season-opening World Cup, in Fiera di Primiero,
Italy, sent her dashing to a gym in Switzerland to train tricky, technical
problems similar to those on the World Cup. "I think in Fiera I had
tunner vision," said Rands. "If it feels like V10, you're
probably doing it wrong. For Lecco I studied the European-style of route
setting."
At Lecco, Rands squeaked into the final in last place failing to flash any of the preliminary problems, meaning she climbed first in the fina1. After she on-sighted the first two problems, the route setters - suddenly very nervous - scurried over to the last problem and stripped off two footholds. Their actions did little to stop Rands' rampage, as she on-sighted five of the six finals problems. Her performance put powerful pressure on the two French climbers in the lead after the preliminary round, Corrine Theroux and Sandrine Levet, the reigning World Cup bouldering champ. The Gallic duo each had to fall twice for Rands to win. They grudgingly obliged.
It left like a dream to win, said Rands. "I kept hearing from Americans that we couldn't keep up with the rest of the World. I wanted to do this for myself but I also wanted to prove that American women are strong, that we can compete with the best."
On a roll Rands then outclassed an elite bouldering field in the International Open L'Argentiere la Besse, France, in late July. In the five-woman superfinal, each competitor had three minutes per problem. One by one, the competitors futilely attempted the first problem. Then Rands strode out, quick1y dispatched the problem, and returned to isolation to the bewilderment of her competitors. Rands pulled off the same trick on the second problem. "I liked these problems;" Rands said of her victory. "They required pure power and body tension. No tricks." Rands has set her sights on the overall World Cup bouldering title. With three competitions to go and her savvy and confidence on the rise, she should have a great second half of the season. -Gall Rothschild